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Surf’s Up!

Although surfing had its heyday in the sixties and seventies with TV shows and movies such as “Beach Blanket Bingo,” and “Gidget,” surfing has been around for quite some time. Wikipedia defines surfing as “a surface water sport in which the wave rider, referred to as a surfer, rides on the forward or deep face of a moving wave, which is usually carrying the surfer towards the shore. Waves suitable for surfing are primarily found in the ocean…The term surfing refers to the act of riding a wave, regardless of whether the wave is ridden with or without a board, and regardless of the stance used (goofy or regular stance).“

Dedicated surfers are a nomadic breed, often spending thousands of dollars in their lifetimes on boards, trips across the globe in search of the perfect wave, and surfing accessories and paraphernalia. While many dedicated don’t live like bums, most would much rather be on their boards than behind a desk. A lot of hardcore surfers choose to live near the ocean so they can dedicate themselves to riding the waves. Many also make surfing their first priority, and choose a job or a job location based on the proximity of nearby waves. There are many surfing competitions that help dedicated surfers win enough money to finance their addiction to the thrilling and elusive perfect ride.

Pro surfers spend most of their non-working moments in the water. They learn to build up stamina in their muscles, breath control, and flexibility by training in the water, taking Yoga classes, and practicing. Some use boards indoors (called “indo boards”) to perfect their stance to practice moves on the boards. True dedication also requires using online videos to watch other surfers in action, to pick up tips and ideas to perfect their own craft.

Regardless of one individual’s definition of the surfing lifestyle, it’s apparent that professional surfers are a rare and dedicated breed of people in their quest to find the perfect wave.

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